The X1-Files: Buell American Motorcycles

"It came in the nicest box I have seen a MC part come in. Also included in the box with the pipe was a t-shirt, baseball hat, lapel pin, keychain, stickers. Pretty nice. The pipe mounted up pretty easy, looks similar in shape to a V&H. The sound is similar but with a little more snarl to it. Cost through a local Harley shop was $260.00 complete."

"Life warranty is on all parts except glass wool (but lifetime is more than 10000 miles because they use a special glass wool without organic binder). The sound is fantastic (seems between V&H and Pro series) and looks great. I find that WileyCo is the best compromise: nice look, good sound, good perf, life warranty, good price and, till now (9000 miles), no crash. "

"Just had my WileyCo front mount fail. I only had about 500 miles on the pipe. Not a good sign, looks similar to the Vance and Hines type problems. But at least it's covered under lifetime warranty."

Two Brothers

It's just a little quieter than a Vance & Hines.
The elbow is clamped to the header and is bolted to the engine but is separate from the muffler and is held to the muffler with two stainless steel springs.
The rear is held up by a rubber covered strap that goes around the muffler and is bolted to the bike.

Staintune

Being an Aussie I decided to go with the local product ... 8,000 miles later I couldn't be happier. No problems at all with the pipe. It tucks well out of the way and the front mount is rock solid. The seat of the pants dyno told me it helped with the midrange dip the X1 has when stock. As a package with the race ECM and an S3 race airbox it is excellent. I think that to bring out the best in any pipe the FI bikes need the race ECM and better breathing. Down side of the Staintune is that it is as loud as hell. I wear ear plugs on long rides now. The X1 is the loudest bike I've owned since I had a Laverda with a chopped muffler.

I have travelled 10,000 miles on my '97 S1 using an Australian made Staintune stainless steel muffler. I have no problems to report at all. The muffler is well made, performs to expectations and looks fantastic. Would I buy their product again (when I buy my Firebolt)? You bet I will.

Kooks

"It definitely generates the power of the Buell Race Pipe, if not more. It is louder but sounds really good at power. I've had mine on my bike for 8 months and have had no problems whatsoever. I would definitely recommend the system to anyone that wants more power and a powerful sound."

"The sound is awesome, and the power is the way it was supposed to be. Battle2Win says it's the only pipe combo that has better numbers than the Buell Race! This mutha is solid as a block of unobtainium!! It is much smaller than the stock unit and the bracket is for real."

"Try to be a little more conservative in tight right handers than lefts with your new Kooks pipe, or this may happen to you..."

Yoshimura

Comments?

"My X1 was delivered with a Yoshimura can on it. The Yoshi lasted less than 2,000 miles before the front mount broke. Mostly my fault because it constantly dragged through corners (it hung way too low)."

"My chin fairing was touching the exhaust so I shaved 1/4 inch off. Still wasn't happy so I removed the chin fairing. "

Sundance

From the Land of the Rising Sun...

HSA

From Germany...

I have a Buell M2 with an HSA exhaust. I'm very happy with this. That's the streetlegal version. The engine is empty without it (in Europe, there's a big hole between 2500/rpm and 3500/rpm) ; not with the HSA exhaust, the engine is full everywhere. The sound is very good, and not so strong (and much better than with the original exhaust).

Scorpion

From England...the muffler is slightly longer than most of the other aftermarket ones, therefore making it a bit quieter, but not at the detriment of power and torque.

Scorpion are pretty popular in the UK, although they do tend to snap front mounts as much as any. I have heard stories of them refusing warranty work, but no personal experience.

Buell Race Muffler (Old)

This system no longer available as it is under recall. See Service Bulletin here.

(To view, you may first have to download the Adobe Acrobat Reader)

Buell Race Muffler (New)

82000-99YA, X1 Race Kit.

JB Motorcycles

Website | Comments?

Ducati style... from France.
Full system is now available from JB Motorcycles, nearby Dijon, France, but only under individual request.

The price of the full system, including the exhaust pipes, mufflers, new oil tank and relocating kit for the battery (now under the seat) will be 12000 French Francs, i.e. about 1600 US$ + shipping. One should expect a delay of about one month between the order and the end of production of the system + time for shipping which will depend on the shipping option considered.

They take Visa card payment and have somebody speaking relatively good English in the shop, so it's possible to deal straight with them. They now have an e-mail address : jb.motorcycles@wanadoo.fr Their phone number is +33 3 80 74 09 25, fax is +33 3 80 72 15 93.

Stainless Specialties

High performance combined with great looks. Polished stainless. Lifetime Guarantee.

2001 Mount

Upgrade your failure prone exhaust mount with the upgraded 2001 mount. From California Cafe Racers Homesite Part# S1001.01A1 See Service Bulletins for more information.

Sealant

All Buells except fuellies (see below)... When you put the muffler back on did you use any sealent? Try Permatex Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone part no. 27B item no. 81422, it is in a orange tube.... that way you're assured of no leaks.

When you install the muffler you put on a light coat of the silicone on the pipe. This will seal any air leaks that can't be tightened down by the clamp. It is cooler at the muffler connection than at the header pipe, so the heat does not affect the silicone.

Make sure you apply the sealant to the female end of the connection. That way when the two are slid together you dont end up with a giant glob of seal on the outside of the connection. Makes for a much cleaner install.

Regarding the use of silicone sealants with exhaust headers and mufflers: silicone is NOT recommended for Buell fuel-injected bikes, as even the fumes from silicone have a detrimental effect upon the Oxygen sensors. Of course, you can pull the O2 sensor and put it away, but still need to wait at least 24 hours for silicone to dry before re-installing the sensor. Difference between a DDFI bike with a "good" O2 sensor and a "bad" (this can even be an old one; we recommend replacement every 10,000 miles or better, sooner than that) can be 6-8 horsepower.

Nord Lock

Try these lock washers from Nord Lock. They worked great on my 99 with 25k miles and they are doing fine on my 00. They are different from any others and are priced at less than a $1.00 each. Plus they are easy to use and still easy to take off when the need arise.

Stage 8 Locking Fasteners

Another idea from Stage 8.

D & D

The muffler is made of mild steel for durability, and should not need repacking anytime during the life of your Buell. The muffler is coated with an industrial black high heat paint that D&D has tested to withstand temperatures of up to 1800 degrees.

I recently installed a D & D full exhaust system on my 2001 X1 Lightning. Unbelievable results! The D & D system is a little on the expensive side, but well worth it. If you have fuel injected system you will need the race ECM because the D&D full system was specifically designed for use with the race ECM. If you have a Power Commander 3 you can still use it with the race ECM, I also recommend the use of the high performance 02 sensor. You will also need the "Y" style exhaust mount. The power increase is highly noticeable. It feels slightly stronger in the mid-range and top end than the Buell race pipe. The low end is just a hair on the mild side. Starting at 4000 RPM in first gear roll on wheelies are a lot easier. The placement for the 02 sensor is much easier to get to than the one on the stock pipe. The sound is a mega bonus, it has all the volume of the Force System but a little deeper, very loud.

White Brothers

"I've been running a White Brothers E-series for over 15,000 miles. From dyno testing it is 98% of the Buell Race kit. It matches the race kit in peak Torque and HP, but falls just a shade short in part of the midrange (read that as 2-3 ft-lb). For the $'s in difference and the reliabilty issues with the race kit, the W.B. can't be beat. My 99' S3T loved it and so does my 00' X1 Race Stripe. The rear bracket is billet aluminum welded onto the body of the muffler. Much stronger than ANYTHING else that I have seen as far as the rear bracket."

Dealer installed the E-series before I took a 3600 mile trip--after 2600 miles elbow fractured--Dealer (HD in Ft. Lauderdale, FL) refused to warranty part (despite 90 parts & labor warranty) White Bros. has yet to respond to mail (they don't return Email). Worst of All the fracture flaked the beautiful Jet Hot off my stock header. Have yet to find out if Jet Hot will honor their "lifetime" warranty. That's the problem with aftermarket stuff--even if it breaks through some dealer tech's fault--you may still end up out of pocket

Vance & Hines

After 4000 km the muffler ripped off at the front. I welded an extra ring on it so it is much thicker now. At the moment it is still on (6200 km).

When I had about 10000km on my bike the stud broke off the tube of my exhaust. (where it is welded). So I welded it again and put a second stud in place. This is a much stronger combination. I have now about 13000km on it and it's still working fine!!!

With the original muffler my Buell starts to perform at 5000rpm (which I found very late)... that means only 1700rpm of power, but in that range very aggressive (max speed 220km/h). With the V&H it starts to perform at 2500rpm but it doesn't have as much peak power, but the engine responds much quicker and the sound is very beautiful (max speed 210km/h).

BUB

You can not use the chin spoiler... other than that - the sound is much more like a traditional Harley - the throaty-ness is deeper than my old bullet or my Supertrapp internal - and the fit and finish is VERY nice...

A little aggravating to install, instructions not clear. Would be nice if they supplied hardware to accommodate chin fairing removal. Rear pipe heat shield kept losing retaining springs... due to airflow getting underneath guard? Removed guards and now run exhaust wrap over pipes up to point of taper at muffler. On the plus side- much lighter than stock, immediate torque and hp increase and a nasty sound when you're WOT. About as cheap as you can pay for a decent exhaust. I would buy them again.

Rode about 700 miles before heat shields tried to fall off. Finally just took them off. Ran another 2300 miles before rear pipe broke. Rear mount near brake pedal pulled business card sized square piece out of the pipe. Fifth exhaust system to fail on my bike.

I just purchased the Bub Bad Dogs for my 2001 X1 & let me tell you they are LOUD. The make the Harley Engine sound like it's supposed to. Maybe too loud for some. If you don't mind dirty looks from your neighbors, surprised looks from all other riders & scolding looks from the officer writing you a citation then these may be the pipes for you. Installation wasn't too difficult... but it may take a spare set of hands & some gorilla strength. Follow the directions that come with the pipes dilligently & be persistant; they are a tight fit. I am by no means a mechanic, all my home improvement jobs have my trademark "goof up" in which I have to hide. I do enjoy trying to turn my own wrench on some things. So if your in the market for some LOUD nice looking pipes & want to save on the install charge... try on a pair of Bub Bad Dogs for your Buell. I've heard that it may take some top end hp away, who knows... all I know is that Inow have no problem getting the front wheel up in 1st or 2nd.

Anyone considering buying pipes from this company should be made aware that you'll need a strong mechanical background in customizing these pipes to fit on an X-1 correctly. When I purchased these pipes I was not expecting to have to modify them to fit my bike, but instead I spent three days adjusting the brackets and making provisions for frame and primary drain plug clearances, not to mention my voltage regulator. By the way you can forget using the heat shields without seriously cutting them for frame clearance on the rear pipe near the O2 sensor. Once all this was done I also realized that they don't triple plate their pipes in the chroming process, so be prepared to lay down more money for that to be done correctly. Once you've put numerous hours of your blood and sweat into fixing these problems I'm sure that you will be happy with these pipes.

Borla

"I have a Borla carbon fiber muffler on my 99 X1. When they first came out there was an issue with the mounting but Borla did an update and since that retro it has been solid as a rock. I have about 5000 miles on the new setup with no problems. Also the sound is really great; not really loud like the Kooks, but much louder than the stock muffler, plus it looks GREAT."

SuperTrapp

Numerous stories of catastrophic failure... sometimes within a day of mounting. Replace!!! ...

For 2001 SuperTrapp has come out with a new muffler, which is a very good evolutionary step from the old one. It still uses the same disks, but it tucks-up closer to the bike (by a good inch), and the mounting system is far superior to the old one. Also, the front elbow and muffler are one piece, so the constant exhaust leak isn't occuring anymore.

SuperTrapp is also doing a exchange program on their old mufflers for free. Contact the company and ask em... The number is: 216.265.8400 x121

Daytona BOSS

"The Daytona BOSS muffler isn't available any longer. The pipe from Stainless Specialties is in essence the same design as what was the Daytona BOSS. I've even heard the pipe from SS is because they bought the rights to make and market the BOSS"

"The BOSS has been great for me so far, but you may or may not like it. It's only really loud when you rev the engine, at idle it just has a deep rumble to it, but by no means is it loud then. On the road it purrs right along. Everyone I've talked to so far who's heard my pipe says it has the best sound of all the Buell cans available now. Guys who've run Borla and Vance and Hines said they liked mine better for it's sound. Value wise, I think it's a good buy. ($325). The finish on it maybe isn't as professional looking as the Borla or the Vance and Hines, but then again neither of those mufflers looks very good when it's bouncing down the road behind you after it breaks and falls off. The mounting system on the BOSS is very solid. I don't foresee any problems with it because there aren't any welds to bust."

"Be ready for a lot of mounting aggrevation !! No clear way to mount without a lot of trial and error. Hope you're up for the challenge!"

After purchase from and initial installation by the local Buell/HD dealership (Pikes Peak HD), and running this beast on my 2000 X-1 for almost two years I have had repeated failures on both front and rear mounts, with final detachment of the baffle inside the can. Noting that the unit was sold with a lifetime guarantee, a year's dialog with the manufacturer and numerous assurances that they would make good on any repairs and/or replacements that were needed only resulted in a final referral to Daytona HD for all further customer service. I currently await replacement of the exhaust and mounting hardware which (I hope) will last longer than the first. As far as performance is concerned the exhaust worked exactly as advertised, with a nice throaty rumble at idle and a satisfying roar on acceleration. Combined with a Force winder intake I noticed a slight increase in power with no apparent impact on fuel economy.

After purchase from and initial installation by the local Buell/HD dealership (Pikes Peak HD), and running this beast on my 2000 X-1 for almost two years I have had repeated failures on both front and rear mounts, with final detachment of the baffle inside the can. Noting that the unit was sold with a lifetime guarantee, a year's dialog with the manufacturer and numerous assurances that they would make good on any repairs and/or replacements that were needed only resulted in a final referral to Daytona HD for all further customer service. The replacement Boss exhaust unit was sent at no charge (other than the shipping cost to get the broken pipe to Daytona HD). Remount was completed without incident and performance is as good as with the original pipe. Sadly, the hanger mounts (both front and rear) are of the same poor design and fitment. Strongly recommend custom after-market fabrication of mounts made of stronger, thicker gauge material, with fewer bends at critical stress points.

Force

Surging and stalling problems

A full racing header, NOT a slip-on glasspack. Features a step header, mega-merge collector, reverse-cone megaphone, front mount, and JET-HOT coating, in your choice of Shimmering Silver or Bad Black.

Some fitment problems recorded with X1 installs, but Johnny at Force seems to have a rock solid rep. for customer service.

I have the Force exhaust on my 2001 X1. Awesome sound to it. The Harley guys are jealous. Although it is louder than most people like, it is advertised as a full race exhaust. I think it sounds mean. Although it does focus the power above 3000 it isn't bad below. You hit that 3000 mark and you know it though. Downshift and let the clutch slip and you're looking at the sky. I also have the Forcewinder intake and the Powercommander on the bike. One awesome setup.

Engine

Drivetrain

Suspension

Hyperpro

… their system reverses the suspension action so that a compressed shock is used. This way the forces are being transmitted into the large body of the shock, not pulling outward against the small amount of metal that is outboard of the mounting points. Read more about it at Buell World...

Buell World Rebuttle

There are no inherent problems with a pull-type shock. There are problems with the Showas on Buells, but that's because Showa is reworking standard shock components to work on the pull stroke....not the best way to approach it. Penske's cheaper than the Hyperpro, just as effective...but anything is better than the Showa. WPs and Penskes use the spring collars and through bolts...no flexing of the shock.

Replacing Your Isolators

The X1 has a removable isolator cover on the left side only. By disconnecting the rear heim-joint, you can replace both isolators without removing the swingarm.

I would also not recommend using the factory tool for changing them. Instead, check the ATC tech tips site.

2001 Isolators

The Z0010.CB kit ( $46.40 ) includes a pair of new isolators, a new pulley cover and hardware. The front isolator does NOT have to be replaced but it is recommended that it is inspected for tears and replaced if needed.

BMC is also coming out with a updated isolator replacement tool that will be available soon. All Buell dealers were sent two service bulletins on these new isolators and procedures on how to change them on all Buell models.

WestTek Lowering Kit

Lowers seat height 1 inch.

Polishing your swingarm

Removing the powder coat is the hardest and is taken care of quickly with a 4.5" grinder and 2 grades of Bear-Tex pads, Maroon=Medium, Blue=Fine. After that 400, 600, 800 wet-dry (depending on how proficient you are with the Bear-tex pads) followed by polishing wheels in a drill motor with finer and finer grades of compound. You need at least 3 polishing wheels, 1 for each grade of compound your going to use. You just can't get that coarser compound out of those cotton spiral sewn wheels and it takes for ever to get that "see yourself" shine. The last grade is jewelers red rouge and then some Denova, Simichrome, or Flitz. You may find Mothers Aluminum polish is too abrasive. Try Denova polish. One helpful tidbit is at a good Home Center like Lowes or Home Depot, they have many grades of Bear-Tex or Scotch-Brite, for things like the brake and shift pedals or those spots you can't reach with the electric tools, you can use the Scotch-Brite pads with Mothers and then Denova and then just Denova and a rag. It takes about 10 steps progressively getting finer and finer to get that shine we all want. BTW: After you polish all your goodies, don't use S-100 on your bike. It white streaks the polished surfaces very badly. Cycle Brite (by Blue Coral) works better and does not white streak the polished surfaces. You can get a really polished swing arm in about 5 hours. X1's are easier than S3's or M2 since you can remove the rear triangle that holds the passenger pegs. That way very little hand work is required.

Sealed Head Bearings

Timkin # L44600LA-902A1 This is the inner cone bearing part.
Timkin # L44610 This is the outer bearing race.
Timkin # L44643 Standard inner cone non-sealed variety (Just in case anyone was wondering...)

The outer race was about $3.00 each, the inner bearing with seals was about $16.00 each. The non sealed type bearings were around $6.00 if memory serves. No problems removing or installing the races, just used a long punch to tap out the old ones and then used the threaded rod and wood block "tool" to pull the new races in flush. I then used the old race and light taps all the way around to seat the new race. The old race will stick in the steering stem but a couple of light taps on the exposed lip takes care of that problem. The new sealed type bearings have a bit more friction than the open style. I haven't really noticed it when everything was reassembled. If I was to do it again, I would use the open style on the top and the sealed unit on the bottom.

Maxton

The Maxton Buell Unit, as with all their units, is built to order and is valved and sprung to suit rider weight and the use of the bike - fast road use, racing, touring. The shock is fully adjustable for rebound and compression damping with an infinite range of compression damping to help set the bike up for different styles and preferences. It also has adjustable ride height so you can, if needed, make the bike turn quicker.

Technoflex

... provides the best shock for Buells on the market (and the most expensive as well - it's about $1100). This is not a simple damper unit, they add a "lever" system with a standard shock - pushed not pulled like the original shock. It's perfect on the street and under race conditions as well. Most sensitive with a separate high-speed and low-speed compression damping unit, widely adjustable in any direction. They offer a spring kit as well ~$120 (Oil and Fork). Which is a big step in the right direction without removing the whole fork. All German Buell Race Teams are using this system.

Penske

Considered by many the best shock for your Buell.

2001 K1400.C Shock

1.77 inches shorter than the old setup and requires that the new front shock mount that comes with the kit be installed.

Rear suspension sag for Buells equipped with recall shocks should (per the appropriate service bulletin) now be measured from shock rod-end to rod-end, not via the rear axle to tail-section method prescribed by the owners manuals for pre-2001 Buells).

See Service Bulletins for more information.

Check your isolators

When they tear it sends a vibration through the peg. The tear can be difficult to spot but examine the inside and outer isolator. Sometimes the isolator bolt will be buried into the wall of the isolator. Don't be alarmed if it is off center (it is supposed to be), but if it is actually making contact you probably have a problem.

Looking at the mounting bolts can be confusing because the isolators are made off center so the mounting bolts look like they are at the rear of the isolator. Here is what to look for 1. any tears in the rubber. The rubber material may separate from internal washers and show a rip around the outer side. 2. any tears under the isolator at about 7:00. This is where the locator pin goes into the isolator. many of the earlier Buells had the pins too long and would hit an inner washer and cause a rip right below the pin. All the dealers were notified of this and was supposed to check the pin height when they did the recall. 3. you will feel a lot more vibration in the foot peg on the side that goes bad. 4. if the isolator rips all the way through, you will find the handling will get bad.

Isolator failures were primarily due to improper installation. New style (model year 2001+) isolators are much more robust and are retrofittable for prior model Buell twins. Impending failure of old style isolators is evident by distortion/waviness seen in the two or three parallel rings circling the visible surface of each isolator.

Hyperpro Damper

The only thing I had to do to provide proper clearance for the scoop was to move the bottom scoop bracket up a bit to pull the bottom of the scoop up a tad.
The picture makes it look like it is touching, but there is about a 1/4" of clearance. Rockin setup and it works nicely. Definitely the way to go if you're keeping the stock scoop and airbox.

RAM Single Sided Swing Arm

The RAM aluminum single sided swingarm is supplied as a kit, complete with brake system, (in this case the optional Heavy Duty using twin Brembo light alloy racing calipers), transmission bearing carrier, wheel shaft, pulley flange (to accept the stock pulley), and hardware.

Wheels & Brakes

Dymag Carbon Fibre Wheels

For those with lots of spare cash...

Polished Rims

Simple mod for painted wheels: (as long as you do it at a tire change). Sanded rims with orbital sander (220 grit, didn't want to take too much rim off). Wet sanded with 400 and 600 by hand. I found some metal polish while I was at the marine store called Flitz (I think it may be the same as that stuff, Semi Chrome polish). I didn't polish it to a chrome like finish, that would be too hard to maintain with out a clear coat.

Removing tire weights

Mount your new tire, and check the balance before you remove the old weights. Sometimes, the tires are balanced the same and the weights won't need changing. Warm them up with a hair dryer and they should come off easier, if there is "glue" left behind take some salad oil on a rag and rub it.

Wheel Alignment

Buells are pretty sensitive to wheel alignment and handling (short wheelbase,steep head angle). It makes a world of difference in handling (tank slapper at 90mph when passing a car on crowned roads will make you check your alignment and your underwear). Don't set your alignment to try to prevent belt rubbing, I have two 8 ft straightedges of aluminum and set them to the back wheel and measure the gap in the front wheel (back wheel is wider so the edges run parallel. Once you think it is straight go down a flat uncrowned road or parking lot, do the "look ma no hands" and see if the bike goes straight, if you have to use your body leaning one way or the other to keep it straight try aligning again. You will love the newfound handling when both wheels are pointed in the same direction.

Wheel Bearings

Make sure to check your wheel bearings, front (2) and rear (3) every time you replace a tire. Can go bad after less than 10K miles. The bearings have a habit of seizing and then spinning in the hub of the wheel, ruining the wheel. This seems to be more prevelent on PM wheels than Castaloys. Replace the OEM wheel bearings and the steering head bearings at 10K miles as a preventitive measure. Look for German, US or Japanese bearings and avoid others. NSK (good quality Japanese) bearing part numbers - Rear wheel (Castolloys) Right side - 2@6205-2RS Left side - 1@62205-2RS Front wheel 2@6204-2RS The left side rear bearing has been a little difficult to locate at times.

Try Boss Bearing...

Dual Brakes

Cap can build the bracket for the Nissin so you can run dual discs cheaply. You will have to run a Buell rotor reversed on the left side. He can also do a mirror image of the rotor carrier to make it look right but that drives the cost up. With dual 6 piston Nissin calipers you will need a 9/16 bore MC and a dual disc hose. This method is the cheapest way but will still cost in the $500-600 range with all the parts needed. If interested in a dual disc setup, give Cap a call at 865-546-3380 or email him and he will point out all of the options and costs.

Demystifying Brake Fluids

The discussion of whether to use DOT3, DOT4, DOT5, or the new DOT5.1 brake fluids is a common topic. The information provided herein should help you to decide which of these brake fluids are best for you ...

Rear brake bleeding procedure

Since the highest point of the brake system on the '99 X1 Lightning is the rear brake light switch, it will be almost impossible to bleed the system from the caliper. Here is my procedure to bleed the rear brakes that only takes a few minutes. You will need the following items:

1) a flavor injector from the supermarket 2) hose to attach flavor injector to bleeder valve, preferably clear 3) a brake bleeding bottle 4) Teflon tape 5) a fitting to attach to the rear brake light switch mounting point. This fitting should have a barbed end to attach to the bleeder bottle.

Procedure Part 1: 1) Remove the rear brake light switch from the hard brake line. 2) Attach fitting to hard line at switch attachment. 3) Attach bleeder bottle to this fitting. 4) Remove bleeder valve from rear caliper. 5) Teflon tape the bleeder valve so that it will not leak. 6) Reattach bleeder valve. 7) Tighten bleeder valve. 8) Fill Flavor injector with brake fluid. 9) Attach flavor injector to rear caliper bleeder valve. 10) Create a small bit of suction on bleeder valve by slightly pulling up in injector syringe. 11) Open bleeder valve. The slight bit of vacuum you created should suck any bubbles from the syringe attachment into the syringe. If not pull syringe top a little more. 12) Once the bubble is safely into syringe plunge fluid in syringe into brake line. 13) Close bleeder valve. 14) Repeat steps 8-13 until there is no more air coming out of system. It took me about 3 syringe fills.

Procedure Part 2: 1) Press brake pedal and hold. 2) Pinch bleeder hose. 3) Release rear brake pedal. 4) Wait several seconds 5) Release bleeder hose pinch 6) Repeat steps 1-5 until no more bubbles come out. This part of the procedure takes many cycles since there master cylinder churns any air bubbles into tiny little bubbles. These tiny bubbles stick to the inner surfaces of everything inside your brake system. It may take 50 or more cycles of this procedure to get rid of all the little bubbles.

Procedure Part 3: 1) let the brake system sit still for several minute. This prevents any vacuum in the master cylinder from sucking air back thru the brake light switch. 2) Remove bleeder bottle and fitting from rear brake light switch attachment 3) using syringe top-off the brake light switch mounting hole with brake fluid. 4) Teflon tape brake light switch 5) reattach brake light switch

Pump the rear brake a few times and it should now be harder that it came from the factory!

Lyndall Racing Brakes

You seldom ever think that if you change something as simple as your brake pads that it will change your motorcycling life forever. I have always used OEM, and took for granted that "There only brake pads...right? They're all the same." Well the Pro-thunder racer in our pack slipped me a set of LYNDALL pads after he heard me squeak up to one of our meetings ( I had 7k on OEM pads and they were already spent). I changed the pads, and I let the racer break them in, and OH MY FRIGGING GOD!!!!, I now stop in half the distance, the grip is smooth, I never feel like I will lock it up and still I have to be careful or I get a good stoppie. I teach motorcycle safety for the military down here in San Diego and we have to show our students the difference between rear brake and both brake application, the drill has you riding down a shoot at 15MPH and stopping in the shortest distance, usually 10 Ft for that speed, as soon as I apply the brakes I stop smooth in less than 4ft. I don't know I just wanted to share this with all of you. And By the way I have 10k on the LYNDALL pads and very little wear.

Braking USA Wave Rotor

Available for 1998 and newer Buell models. Will fit all models with supplied hardware. Full floating and light weight, these rotors are a great addition to any custom Buell, or for anyone wanting to upgrade their brake systems. The part number for the Buell is STX42D and retails for $319.90 each.

RAM Perimeter Braking System

The revolutionary XXL Perimeter Brake System, featuring 16.6 inch wide brake rotors.

Dual Brakes (DKF Performance)

'94-'01 All Twins, Kit Includes: 320mm full floating rotors, Brembo 4 Pot Calipers, Ferodo brake pads, Nissin 5/8" master-cylinder, hard anodized billet aluminum hangers & Goodridge braided steel line kit.

Dual Brakes (Trojan Horse)

Twin front disc brake conversion. Using a Nissin caliper on the left fork leg, and a directional copy of the original disc, this is the most cost effective twin disc system available at £650 (US$900).
There is also a 4 piston rear brake assembly available at £335 (US$470).

Removing Brake Rotor

I tried removing the rotor screws in the front rotor. No good. Just ended up bending tools and wallowing out one of the screws. I figured I would just remove the front wheel and take it to my local shop and let them do the exchange and rebalance the wheel. Eddie, the Buell certified mechanic at Bumpus HD/Buell in Murfresboro, Tn. took all of about two minutes to remove the old bolts. He said Eric Buell showed him that if you take a brass rod and a ball peen hammer and tap the top of the screws, it 'shocks' them and allows the air gun to remove them easily.

No pressure at the rear brake

The line coming from the master cylinder to the reservoir was too long and kinked slightly (more like a little bend) not allowing any fluid to pass. The kink was so slight that it wasn't noticed... tried for two days to blead the brake but couldn't get any peddle pressure. Changed the line to a little shorter one and that worked.

Rear Brake was awful . .. bled it repeatedly, no change, changed pads, no change. Removed the caliper, cleaned the hole in the forward portion of the caliper where the pin slides in and out, allowing said caliper to move back and forth, all of a suddenly, I got rear brake! I used a .32 bore bruch (brass) and flushed the daylights out of the bore with contact cleaner, but anything shy of a .45 would likely work . . . I then covered the pin with Never-Seize.

Rear Brake Dragging

Look at the sprocket cover with a rider on the bike, the tail of the cover may put a little pressure on the brake linkage.

Possible Brake Lockup Causes

Reason # 1: Because the front brake can get real hot during heavy breaking road dirt that normal flys into them can get cooked onto the caliper pistons. Normally this isn’t a problem unless you’ve just replaced your pads or bled your brakes. The crud that cooks on the pistons limiting their additional travel necessary due the changes you made. (Pads whatever)
# 2: Overfilling your master cylinder with brake fluid. Brake fluid expands when it gets hot so leave room for expansion. If you topped off the reservoir and later replaced the pads then you have too much fluid in the system and it will cause the brakes to drag.
# 3: A blocked bleed return port. This port is how the fluid returns to the MC after braking and thus allowing the pads to retract away from the disc. The debris could be part of a seal, MC body that has been worn away by the piston motion, or debris that has fallen into the reservoir when the top was removed. Inspect and clean to restore the brakes.
# 4: The piston isn't returning fully and is blocking the bleed return port. Inspect the piston for damage, and inpect all parts that come in contact with the piston and clean, repair, or replace the offending part.
#5: Also warped rotors can drag on the pads making it seem like the pads aren't retracting. Check rotor with a straight edge and replace if necessary.

On the road: The moment you think your front brake is binding pull over! If it is binding the disk will be hot as opposed to warm to the touch. Let it cool down about 15 minutes and bleed your brake. If you don’t do this you will warp your rotor. Remember this is just a road side fix to get you home.

At home: Check your front rotor for warp by spinning it to see if it wobbles. Next (consult your manual) remove the front wheel. Place a piece of wood between the caliper pistons and VERY carefully squeeze the front brake so the pistons are out about a 1/4 to 3/8”. Remove the caliper and remove the bolts that hold the two halves of the caliper together. Using a shop rag (do NOT use pliers) you can now remove the 6 pistons and wipe them clean. Technically you should replace the O rings. Anyway reassemble your bike and you should be good to go.

Misc

Givi Fairings

Buellers have mounted Givi A750 & A755 fairings to M2’s & X1's with little problems and have been happy with them.

Yodude Flytrap

The Flytrap is a hinge kit that allows the flyscreen on your Buell to open. This creates a storage area large enough to store a cell phone, camera, sunglasses etc. The kit includes a unique hinge that allows the screen to open at an angle , all the nuts bolts & washers as well as a set of dual snaps to keep the screen closed. They even powdercoat the outside capnuts to maintain the original look.

Cool Product. I got the hinge and the travel case. My advice to anyone? Buy just the $15 hinge and find your own travel case. I am looking at cases designed for Gameboys and they fit better and are of a higher quality than what Yodude sent me.

Better Mirrors

Buell improved the mirrors for 2001 but didn't tell anyone. Same vendor, same design, but 3/4" longer arms. No left or right, just rotate 180 degrees and they fit nicely and are really stock. Part # N1161.01A1.

Mirror from KTM Duke II, right: 58712041000 , left: 58712040000 ~$30. ea The KTM mounts are required as well, 58412040050 adapter (qty 2), ~$14.ea

	Also, Kawasaki Zephyr adjustable clutch lever.

Skyking 3inch convex bar-end mirrors. See it here...

CRG bar-end mirrors. Make the Napoleon mirrors look pretty crude. Expensive though, as they are all black anodized billet aluminum.See it here...

Third Eye bar-end mirrors. Available at a bicycle shop for about 12 dollars each. The optics are great and they don't vibrate even at 135mph plus.See it here...

Napolean bar-end mirrors. See it here...There are problems mounting these...

Do NOT cut your handgrips! There is a design flaw in the rubber spacer used on these. Having tried several solutions I found the simplest is the best fix. The problem is the thin wall of the bushing expands causing the mirror to slide into the grip. Soultion, turn the rubber bushing around and tighten that grip with confidence! As I recall you may want to move the washer to the other side of the rubber bushing, try both ways.

Or, go to a dirt bike shop and get a set ot Enduro Engineering bar mounts for steel bars. They work with two slash cut aluminum peices that pull together when the bolt is tightened. I had to do a little modification to my mirrors but they now stay adjusted and the mounts extend the mirrors about half inch from the bars.

You can mount the "Napolean" bar-end mirrors in the same location as the stock ones - not an easy thing to do, but they work pretty good.

Paul Yaffe Mirror Kit

Adjustable Levers

The adjustable brake lever from a Kawasaki ZX9R around 95-96 is a perfect match Part# 13236-1185. And the Kawasaki Zephyr had an adjustable clutch lever Part# 46076-1165. Adjustable clutch lever needs a little modification (10min switch in side) because Kawasaki switch connecter has 3 pin, Buell has 2 pin and reverse action. Brake lever is just bolt on. Total parts cost about $80 .

Handlebars

S3T bars fit, with minimal mods required, for a more upright seating position. They do need a hole drilled to align the left switch cluster. Also the cables and wires are TIGHT... they need to be freed from thier captive ties.

Handlebars from a Ducati Monster (M900), they are a very close fit to the tank when "hard over", but they don't actually touch.

Throttlemeister

Bar-end cruise control. Available from American Sportbike for ~$125.

Cheap Cruise Control

Ask one of your Harley buddies for a small hair band they use for their pony tails. Doubled up, and placed between the grip and the instrument housing, it works very effectively! Can't see it either.

Sato Racing Rearsets

"These newly released rear sets were born from development and testing not only on the street but also in World GP3 and the All Japan GP 125 track for more than 2 seasons. (Masao Azuma, who uses our rear sets in World GP3 won twice in 2001 series). The goal of our rear set production is to offer the best operation, best quality and excellent design. We use double miniature stainless ball bearings for the shift and brake levers alleviating any looseness or wobble. We knurl our footpegs for non-slip characteristics during aggressive riding---even the GP riders love the non-slip feel! Our pegs are adjustable so that you can choose your best position. Our rear sets are precision made, CAD/CAM designed and CNC machined. We give them anodized finishes, to prevent from oxidizing and scratches. You can choose from either silver or black. "

Part Numbers

Harley part #71441-94 is a ringer for the original Buell switch, all you must do is splice your Buells ignition switch harness connector to the Harley switch, there are even butt connectors supplied with the switch, and the wires are color coded the same.

The Service Manual for 99/00 X1 is 99490-00Y and the Parts Manual for 99 is 99571-99Y

Millenium X1 Parts... Frame screen kit M1044.Q Rear Vent(L & R) Screen Kit
Footpegs N0403.Q N0404.Q Footpeg pivot pin 50795-00Y Spring 50794-00Y Washer 6045Y E-clip 50178-96Y

ECM is 91437-99Y

Pro series race header 65400-99Y Pro series race muffler 91424-99Y Pro series race air filter 91420-99Y

Front isolator 16207-79B Rear isolators 47680-94Y

PPG paint codes...

Canyon Red - DBC 75049
Carbon Black - DBC 9700
Red Snap - DBC 75050
Blue Streak - DBC 19038
Amazon Green - DBC 48449
Black Magic - DBC 95055
Billet - DBC 36571
Spark Red - DBC 75056
Reactor Yellow - DBC 81746
Orange - DBC 61876
Demon Blue - DBC 5246
Onyx Alloy - 95152-32

Sport Twin has an excellent page on BMC Paint Formulas.

Shifter Replacement

Need a field repair for a broken shift peg? A standard 5/16" bolt, a little Loc-Tite blue, then wrap the exposed threads with black electrical tape.

Key Trick

The other day I discovered that the fork lock was turned so that I could not insert the key to unlock the fork! I solved this problem by filing off the tab on the outside of the key enabling me to insert the key and unlock the fork. Removing this tab in no way impacts the key's functions except that by removing the tab there is nothing to hold the key in place. You might want to remove the key when riding the bike so you don't loose it and make sure you have the lock code for the key so you can replace it.

Fasteners

There are only two types of fasteners that are good; all others are EVIL. The good fasteners are regular hex head bolts and standard Allen head cap screws. Generally the tools for the EVIL fasteners lack sufficient hoop strength causing the tool to break. To that end, I changed the derby cover bolts to 1/4 x 5/8" standard Allen cap screws (DUH now I can use the SAME TOOL to R&R primary cover). My front rotor uses 5/16" by 1-1/4 hex bolts; the old EVIL star bolts of course broke the tool. Now R&R-ing the tire is a breeze; the GOOD bolts come right out; no problem to free the rotor. (both the older style and the Y2K rotors) Various other fasteners have, where possible, been converted to GOOD types; ie the bolts holding the plastic body parts onto the frame, for example.

Buell Vanson Leathers

I purchased a Vanson coat with the Buell lettering and Pegasus logo on the back and cannot be more happy with the garment. They installed a zipper on the liner so you can put in your choice of hard or soft armor or none at all. They encourage you to "beat" on the leather and make no bones about riding in a driving rain. They guarantee no dye will bleed out during a driving rain (which I can personally attest to). They also stand behind their products. Also, I just purchased a Buell for my wife and wanted to order a women's model Buell coat from Vanson. I could not locate a single women's Vanson in stock in Minnesota so I called the factory to figure out how to measure and get the right size. The people that I talked to were great to deal with and when we finally figured out that it would be really difficult to get the right fit by me measuring my wife, they volunteered to send the single salesperson that they have to my town and measure my wife to make a custom fitted Buell jacket for her. Now I don't know what kind of customer service you are used to but I have to consider this way above and beyond the call. Oh, and by the way...their jackets really kick ass too!!!!

99 - 00 - 01 Models

The 99 models have a little different gear ratio between 2nd and 3rd than do the 00 models. The 99 also has a heavier flywheel. The flywheel was lightened in 00 to allow the engine to rev up faster but it affected reliability by changing the harmonics of the motorcycle. The lighter flywheel seems to cause the 00 to vibrate more and hence more vibration related failure (witness recalls on 00 but not on the 99 models). The brake rotor was changed on the 00 models also.

The 01 has the updated shift linkage, updated isolators, new shock, the body work is color molded not painted, reworked oil routing, hidden wiring harness, and the new front exhaust bracket .

Design Award

The Lightning X1 received a 2000 Good Design Award in Japan. The award was given out by JIDPQ, Japan Industrial Design Promotion Organization, sponsored by MITI, the Ministry of International Trade and Industry. Among 2212 nominated products, 895 received the award this year. The X1 received the award in the Product Design category, which screens all industrially produced goods from products used by individuals or in the home, through products used in business, medicine, education and social welfare. The award was given to the X1 based on its uniqueness, charm, development process management and excellent finish. The purpose of the Good Design Award is to seek out and recommend to the public superior designed products, architecture and environments. Good design does not simply refer to the external beauty of a product. It indicates overall superior quality, an element that encompasses functionality, product quality, safety, architecture and environments, as well as innovative lifestyle suggestions. Products, architecture and environments that offer us a richer way of life are, based on this broad vision, selected and bear the G-Mark, which signifies the product has won a Good Design Award.

My Personal Log

0km/0miles - Rear wheel loses a little over a pound of air a day. Inside of rim was not painted, allowing magnesium to breath.
1500km/900miles - Failed front muffler bushing.
4500km/2800miles - Broken ECM ground wire.
4700km/3000miles - Failed front muffler bushing, broken rear exhaust hanger, bad O2 Sensor, fouled plugs. Installed 2001 shock and exhaust mounts, Jaz catchcan and Mikuni breather kit. New rear rim.
7000km/4400miles - Replaced O2 sensor. Installed 10R12 plugs.
7700km/4800miles - Rear shock locknut backed off. Speedo sensor replaced.
9500km/5900miles - Rear rocker gasket. Replaced front as well. Gas cap wallowed out, fixed with JB Weld. Speedo sensor replaced (#3!).

Eurocomponent Problems

Here is my humble testimony regarding Eurocomponents parts for the S1 and X1... These are nice parts for bikes which stay in...showroom. The conception (design) does not take into consideration the "killing" vibrations of our bikes and the result is ALWAYS the same after 200 or 300 miles : the part begins to crack and finally breaks... I've enclosed some pics of the second "rear under panel - fender eliminator" mounted on my '2000 X1, the first presented the same defect and was changed but as you can see, this one didn't last either... I experienced the same problems with a rear fender and an airdam offered by the same company for the S1. So I know these products very well...they are manufactured in my country, France and I even visited the site where they are located (Odyssey Kolors in Toulouse). Unfortunately the "after sales service" is not very good...the answer for me was : "you didn't mount it correctly, it's your fault !" Very easy...to consider that conception flaws can be hidden by a so-called incompetence of the customer. I've always done my bike services myself and never experienced any problems with other brands like RRC, Buell OEM parts, Road Racing etc...and my advice is to stay away from Eurocomponents parts for Buell which are "only" expensive body parts for showroom bikes. Just my opinion, based on my own experience, using these parts and contacting this company since the end of 1997.

Libertek Integrated Tail lights/ Turn signals

"Diamond Lights" are aftermarket LED lights that utilize the latest in high intensity LED technology. They are housed in a CNC machined aluminum housing, mirror polished by hand and then custom anodized in 5 different colors.

Restoring Black Finish

The black finish on my '99 X1 started to turn white from cleaning and waxing things. Rich, service manager at Lancaster H-D, told me to spray it with any one of the "no rub" tire sprays. I was skeptical, so he sprayed the primary. It works, no white, nice shine, holds up, and it's hassle free. As for the durability of the black finish, it is almost bullet proof.

X1 Racing Gas Tank

Read all about it, and other X1 mods, here...

Weight 4.9 Pounds - Material aluminum - Uses stock fuel pump assembly - Uses stock fill cap assembly - Allows use of any style clip on's - Looks almost identical to stock tank -Weighs less then stock plastic tank - Stock tank cover not used - Very simple bolt on - Each tank is hand made over a 3 day period
Comes unfinished needs to be smoothed and Painted -Developed and used on the Leading National Championship Buell Lighting Series Buell X1. The First Fuel Injected Buell to win a National Road Race & Daytona Winner -Developed by Innovative Motorcycle Research and Built by ProtoFab

Cost approx. $850 Contact rich@racingmotorcycles.com

Gas Cap Problems

You normally turn the key; flip up the release and turn it to pull it out. When you turn the release it is supposed to turn the whole plastic piece under the fuel cap. Unfortunately the plastic piece over time can wallow out (it no longer stays in line with flip release on the top of the cap). JB Weld it.

Blast Horn

For anybody who has put carbon tank accent panels on their X1 here's a solution to the "where and what kind" of horn should I use problem. This is a stock horn off a Buell Blast and costs about 8 bucks. It bolts right on and plugs in, comes with the mounting bracket attached and when installed does not stick out past the frame. Also it is pretty loud for its size.

Fender Chop

Belt Guards (Trojan Horse)

Acrylic belt/heel guards designed for use on post '99 models with the rear hugger/fender removed. Made from 10mm heat treated acrylic sheet, it is available either tinted (blue shown) or clear. Top and bottom guards are available seperately if required. Price for the pair is £75 or £40 each.

Seat (RRC)

This is not just a piece of cosmetic carbon fibre, but a full Formula One grade rear subframe and seat that replaces the entire rear end of the X1. Contains a cushioned tray in the seat hump to house all the electrics, and comes complete with removable suede effect seat pad. Available from RRC or Trojan Horse.

Seats

Buell

Corbin

Soft Bags

Buell

Click to enlarge Eclipse

RKA

Ventura Bike Pack I have been using the Ventura Bike-pack system on my '99 X1 for almost 18 months. I have had not a single complaint. Nothing coming loose or breaking. My pack stays dry in the rain. The distributor in the USA is great I lost the locking screws, all my fault, When I asked to buy new ones they sent them to me free of charge. Great company to deal with.

Samsonite Photo Video Carry-All from WalMart.

Toolkit

You can fit an impressive amount of tools under the seat. You can get a toolbag anywhere that has a good selection of hiking bags... to find one that fits perfectly look for something that is approx. 10in x 6in x 3in . Here's my current kit...

Ratchet, extension, multi-tipped screwdriver
Sockets and wrenches... 8mm, 10mm,12mm, 14mm, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4
22mm wrench (O2 sensor), custom made shock tool (for new shock) 60mm/52mm
36mm bicycle headset wrench & 36mm socket for rear axle, 15/16 socket for front axle
Hex sockets 5mm, 3/16, 5/32, 1/4 ; full set of English & Metric hex keys

5/8 sparkplug socket, 2 spare sparkplugs, gapping gauge
8inch adjustable, needle nose vise grip
Various electrical ends, wire, electrical tape, cable ties, spare fuses, spare exhaust stud locknuts
2 tie down straps

Cruz Tools sells a Buell specific toolkit.

Cable lube

Try a product called "DRI-SLIDE". It is a thin liquid with graphite suspended in it. When the liquid dries, it leaves the graphite behind. The bottle comes with a needle attachment that will allow you to insert it between the cable and sheath - so far it seems to be a very good product. Will definitely have longer lasting effect than WD40. Cost was $8. at the local Kawasaki shop. Black plastic squeeze bottle (8oz. +/-), with a bright green label. OR... HD sells a little tube of oil with a needle type injection tip just for lubing cables. Works slick. Just remove the cables at the bars (only) and stick the needle in between the cable and the housing and inject some oil. Gravity will take it down. OR... If you remove the cable from the bike or at least expose both ends you can get a length of hose about a foot long that has an I.D a little larger than your cables O.D. What you do is this...... Push hose a short way over the outer cable and TIGHTEN it with a Jubilee type clip. At the opposite end of the hose attach an air line connector then fill the hose with WD40. Attach air line at a pressure of around 50 psi and watch the stuff come out of the opposite end of the cable. Repeat again with oil. There is nothing works better, period, and you will not believe the difference until you have tried it !

Centerstand

Highly recommended.

Pitbull

Highly recommended.

K&L Crate Lift

Click to enlarge A versatile shop tool that allows one person to remove a motorcycle safely out of the crate for assembly. Allows operator to lift up to three times their own weight to a max. of 900 lbs. No more struggling or additional manpower for lifting.

EazyRider Bike Lift

The ONE Model of EazyRizer Lift is suitable for ALL Bikes, just choose the inter-changeable mounting brackets to suit your type of bike or the task in hand.

Paint Savers

Foam rubber weatherstripping with adhesive backing. Use it everywhere "stuff rubs"...

Why Buell?

Buells are WWII fighter aircraft, noisy, small, light, often wrenched by the pilot, and loved by all that know them well. Busa's, R1's and the like are like today's Jet fighter aircraft, loud, big, heavy, high tech, high performance, wrenched by others, and loved by all that know them well. All too often I see the compar-o between Buell and Brand X. And often Buell comes in 2nd. But the compar-o is apples to oranges. A WWII Corsair vs F-16 is not a fair comparison. Buells, GTO's, Corsairs and USS New Jersey's 16" guns are all in the same class, bad ass. Busa's, Ferraris, F-16's and Aegis cruiser guided missles are also in the same class, technological wonders. The imported bikes may be better than a Buell but I'd rather have a Corsair than a F-16 any day.

Recalls & Service Bulletins (X1s only)

(To view PDF Service Bulletins, you may first have to download the Adobe Acrobat Reader)

Other bikes / years

Others can be found here.

Carb, Ignition, & Sparkplug Update

The 10R12s and other stuff.

Exhaust Header Mount Retrofit Kit

Upgrade your failure prone exhaust mount with the upgraded 2001 mount.

Updated Isolators

The original isolator kit has been revised to include newly designed, improved rear isoltors

Chafing Brake Line

The rear brake line can chafe, resulting in loss of brake fluid. Should this occur, the rider could experience loss of rear braking capabilities. Dealers will replace the rear brake line. Owner notification began June 1, 1999.

ECM

The computer on early 99's should be upgraded with a new program.

The fuel filter can leak.

Fuel leakage in the presence of an ignition source could result in a fire. Dealers will replace the fuel filter. Owner notification began March 20, 2000.

Bad Sidestand Switch

These motorcycles were built with a sidestand switch that could become inoperative. This condition can cause the engine to stall/quit when riding. Dealers will replace the sidestand switch. Owner notification began June 24, 1999.

Fuel Tank Vent

These motorcycles were built with a fuel tank vent valve assembly that could become plugged. Under certain conditions, this could cause the carburetor to overflow fuel which could result in a fire. This condition could also prevent sufficient fuel flow, which could cause the engine to misfire or stall. Dealers will replace the fuel tank vent valve assembly. Owner notification began June 15, 1999.

2002 Shock Mount

Models: Buell M2L Year: 2002 Buell S3T Year: 2002 Buell M2 Year: 2002 Buell X1 Year: 2002 Number Involved: 387 Dates of Manufacture: September – November 2001 Defect: These motorcycles were built with a front shock mount that is cracked and could break, allowing the suspension to drop unexpectedly. This could cause a loss of control of the motorcycle. Remedy: Dealers will replace the broken shock mount. The manufacturer reported that owner notification was expected to begin during February 2002. Owners who do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Buell at 1-414-342-4680.

It applies ONLY to bikes manufactured between September and November of 2001, and only a certain few within that time frame... a total of 387 bikes.

Rear shock locknut tightening procedure

Revised torque specification and additional instructions required for proper tightening of rear shock adjusting locknuts.

New Shock

A new shock is available for all Buells 95-00 requiring shock servicing. Here's a summary of the confusing situation...

'95 through '98 (all models): Original WP shock is under recall. If the recall service has not been performed, the new '01 style shock will be put on at no charge. If the recall has been performed, and the replacement Showa shock has failed after being in place for less than one year, a new '01 shock will be provided free of charge. If however the replacement Showa failed after more than one year in service, the customer will be charged $100 for the replacement '01 style shock.

'99 X1 & S3 models: Original Showa shock is not under recall. A failure within the first year of service is covered by the factory warranty, and a new '01 style shock will be used. A failure after the warranty expires will incur a $100 charge to the customer and the shock will be replaced with a new '01 style shock.

'99 M2 and '00 all models: Original Showa shock is under recall. Will be replaced with new '01 style shock at no charge. This is true even if the shock is already equipped with the SRP, if the owner objects to the SRP's appearance.

Some deviations from the above have occurred, primarily because the policy was evolving, but this is the latest BMC policy, until it changes.

Shock Recall

Certain 1999 and 2000 Buells were built with a rear shock absorber that could break If the shock should break, the underside of the vehicle could drag on the ground, which may adversely affect handling and cause an accident.

Battery Cable